All our tanks are glass with the outside bottoms painted black. We do this to simulate the show bench. We have observed that fish that are housed in bare bottom tanks that have non-painted bottoms are stressed and skittish.
We use 5 1/2 gallon tanks for most of our breeders and our fry tanks for up to 1 ½ months of age. At 1 ½ months of age they are separated by sex and the males are put into one tank and the females are put into another. We do keep a few females in our male tanks as backup breeders and to keep the males active and off the bottom of the tank where they could acquire fin rot by sitting in the bacteria at the bottom of the tank. When we separate the males from females, the females go down to our lowest ten gallon tanks while our males go to our upper ten gallon tanks. Our racks have three levels. Since heat rises, the lower tanks are cooler that the upper tanks, which causes the females to grow lower. Thus, our females are often smaller than our males.
We use inside box filters in all our tanks with marbles to hold them down with polyester cotton on the top. We feel that there is no need for the use of Carbon or Crushed coral or natural dolomite. Some people feel that stuff will act as a water buffer that helps maintain pH and stabilizes water hardness. We have tried it both ways and have not noticed any difference, so we just save our money and spend it elsewhere.
In most of our tanks, we only use one filter. We only replace our filter floss when we start seeing stuff floating around in the tank. When replacing filter floss, we keep 10 % of the old and add 90% new. This will help transfer the good bacteria to the new filter floss and keeps the tank from crashing. We have tried using sponge filters in the past but prefer the box type filter. We find if you don’t clean a sponge filter once a week it will clog up and cause an ammonia spike and the tank will crash.
If you are planning a fish room that will house over 50 tanks, we suggest purchasing an air pump that is rated to supply enough air for all your tanks plus 25% more. It is nice to have extra air so if you wish to add more tanks you could. One pump of decent air output is more economical then using several small pumps. A small set up of less than 20 tanks may not require air piping or special valves.
We purchased a 1/8 HP Gast Regenerative Blower. Gast is the name brand not the type of fuel it takes to run it. It is an electric air pump. It supplies enough air to run our 150 filters, our two brine shrimp hatchers and air stones in two 60 gallon barrels and one 45 gallon barrel for aging water. It would run at least another 100 filters. The pump requires running at least 3/4 inch PVC piping with inline air valves that should be piped in a grid like fashion to allow the pump to be more efficient. We place a bigger pipe that is 3 ½ and 12 feet long. That pipe is about 10 feet from our blower where we pipe it their with 1 ¼ inch pipe coming off the blower. The 3 ½ inch pipe helps to build up pressure. We then downsize to ¾ of an inch pipe.
General Fish Room Setup and Techniques
Water Quality and Water Changes
Our PH is 7.3 to 7.4, given the day and time of the year. We don’t add any salt to our tanks unless we are medicating. We feel that salt has caused us to have caudal deterioration in the past. Guppies will do well in most water conditions providing there are no Chloramines (ammonia with chlorine) present. A simple test kit is necessary for occasional testing of your tap water. The kits are for Ammonia, Chlorine/Chloramines and a basic pH. If chloramines is present, you must use one the of many commercial products available in most pet stores.
We are lucky to be in the Great Lakes Region where we have some of the best water quality in the country. We never needed to do anything to our tap water other than adding stress coat and allowing it to age and heat overnight. We use two 60 gallon barrels and one 45 gallon barrel that have an air stone and are heated to 82 degrees for our water storage That tempeture is ideal as none of our tanks are warmer than that. It is ok to suddenly raise your tank temperature but never do a water change that is colder. Our fish room is on an automatic water changing system that displaced about 20% of the water in eachtank twice weekly. Having a water change system takes a lot of the work out of the hobby and for a working man with 100 or more tanks it is a must in our option. All our water that is discharged is never reused.
Maintaining guppies as with other tropical fish requires scheduled routine care. We try to stick to a weekday routine of water changes, tank cleaning, etc. It is necessary to do weekly water changes to achieve healthy development of your guppies.
BREEDING THE H/B YELLOW
THE EARLY YEARS 1987 TO 1996
From the first time I attended an I.F.G.A. Show (August 1987), the H/B Yellow was the most impressive guppy for its color. H/B Yellows at that time were small to medium fish. There were two prominent breeders at that time – Paul Evans from Buffalo, NY and the late great Charlie Zesch from St. Louis, MO. Their fish were quite different though. Paul's being smaller and more colorful and Charlie's medium color and better size. Their stock came from (I think) J and B Longer in the early 80s. I purchased a trio from each of them and line bread for 3 generations. I would show them occasionally and took some 1st places at the shows.
In 1989, I made the commitment of showing for a class championship. I found out that showing and winning were not that easy. My early success in the other classes didn't help because the fish had fertility problems and were generally weak. Still new to the hobby, I experimented with crosses. Most were bombs.
In 1992, I decided to try the H/B pastel cross. I had been talking to Elvis Bryant who had been playing with the H/B Yellows and he had no luck at the time. They always turned out to be dirty yellowish H/B Pastels. He said he used Tom Zelinski's H/B Pastels. I told him I was going to try another line of H/B Pastels to cross. He said “Gary don't waste your time, I tried 3 times.”
One day, I got a call from long time friend Tom Harrel from Suffolk, VA. He told me that he had some H/B Pastels he had purchased and some of the young had caudals that were quite yellow! I told him they would turn to a cream yellow at about 7 months. He said that he was going to send me 3 males and 5 females to try. I was not too thrilled. When I received the fish, they were exactly what he said.
I raised the fish up. At 6 months, one of the male's caudel remained quite yellow, with the dorsal and off-yellowish white! I then took his male to Paul Evan's females. Then the Tom Harrel females to a Charlie Zesch Male. The Paul Evan's/Tom Harrel cross gave me 3 drops of approximately 60 fry. Charlie Zesch/Tom Harrel cross only 20 fry with the females dying at birth. Both crosses resulted in good size. Mostly 6 point bodies with 5% at 7 point bodies. The Paul Evans/Tom Harrel cross gave me the most yellow color with 70% yellow in the caudal and 30% yellow caudles with matching yellow dorsals. The Charlie Zesch/Tom Harrel cross were less colorful but gave me more deltas (about 90% were delta with nice flowing dorsals).
I then showed them in the 1994 show season finally winning the H/B Yellow class championship. Just because one person tried a cross doesn't mean it won't work for you! Try and try again. It gave me 3 years of showing the two lines and doing quite well. Crossing often and keeping good records of crosses is a must. Breeding the H/B yellow has been very hard at times, but quite rewarding. Ask questions and learn all you can about the line, no matter what color it is! Have fun, it's not rocket science!
BREEDING THE H/B YELLOWS
The Middle Years To Current (1997-2007)
Breeding H/B Yellows has been both rewarding and frustrating! What happened to me happens to all of us; we all lose interest in a certain color or strain at some time. Devoting more tank space to other color or lines and before you know it, it has taken a toll on the color or line.
This is exactly what happened to me. My H/B Yellows were getting poor. It was time to get serious and improve them. My problem was acquiring good stock (just like before I started raising the guppies). The fish that were out there were mostly my own stock (80%) and needed work themselves. The people that were winning did not want to sell them; I don't blame them. It's always fun to improve a strain and reap the rewards. So I started to slowly pick up my old lines, a little at a time.
At an auction at the 1997 St. Louis Annual, I saw a pair of H/B Yellows on the table. The male had a nice delta caudel and o.k. dorsal. The female was quite pregnant and was starting to give birth in the bag. I decided that i was going to bid on these fish. The bidding started at $30.00 and did not end to the price reached $85.00 I had just paid the most money in my life for a pair of guppies. I had to pinch myself.
The female had about 20 babies, so they broke down the price a bit. This line of H/B Yellow came from Gary Long. Gary had raised these fish from the late 80s with good success. I was lucky enough he was in attendance and briefed me on the line. They were a cross between my line and old Paul Evan's line.
I was at a show in Chicago and picked up a trio in their auction; they were 3 ½ months old, medium size with good color. The breeder was Frank Barta. He said they were crossed between mine and Elvis Bryant's (Charlie Zesch's) stock. I then line bred both lines for two generations before crossing the Gary Long fish (GL line). They were still about the same size and color, but the Frank Barta line (BA) was losing size. I then crossed the two lines both ways (2 sets) of breeders. The GL females produced the largest fry, but three smaller drops about 15 fry a drop.
The BA line gave 2 medium size drops with normal size fry and 30 babies a drop. At about 3 ½ months, the GL line were wide Delta caudels and good color. The Barta fish gave me medium to large fish with good color and I got a few H/B Pastels out of them. I then showed them and did quite well having 3 lines and the ability to cross back and forth.
In 2003, the fish were declining and it was time to cross again. The current lines I have today are the GL BM line of the late 90s, a line of my old 1990 stock of a K line and the cross of a KGL; that's what I'm showing today. One line I'm currently crossing of a Bill Klein H/B Yellow female to a KGL male. This produces a large fish with a cream Yellow color. I'm in the process of crossing back to the straight GL line for the color. I have 3 drops of large fry that are about 7 to 8 months old. I currently have 5 lines of H/B Yellow with two experimental lines. Crossing often and maintaining good records are the key to keeping my strain strong. Have fun showing your gups!
The History of the Mousseau Greens!
The green guppy has always been one of my favorites. About a year and a half ago, I decided that I was going to start breeding some of my own. I began to search for good breeders to start a number of crosses. I soon realized that there are not many breeders that have award-winning green guppies and the few that do don’t distribute them. I searched on the web for anyone who had some just to have a place to start.
When I got my first trio of greens, I was not too impressed with them. I had shown the fish to a few other breeders that said that it was a waste of my time and tank space to continue with that trio. I decided I had already spent the money on them, so why not give them at least one generation to pan out into something to work with. The only thing that the fish had going for them was that they were true green fish with very little blue hint in them. I decided to cross them with Stan Shubel Blues that my dad (Gary Mousseau) has had for about 4 generations.
Let’s call the greens from the original trio I purchased line OG and the Shubel blue line SB. When I abbreviate a cross, I put the male that I used in the cross abbreviation first. I crossed them both ways like this line OG male to line SB females to make an OGSB line and line SB male to line OG female to make a SBOG line. The fry from both crosses looked about the same as the original line with a few minor changes. Line OGSB was a little bigger than their parents were and line SBOG had better shape than their parents but neither line was anywhere close to being complete.
Knowing that the females carry the size gene and the male carries the shape and color gene, I then set up my next cross. It is important to know what is easy to fix in the future and what can be repaired quickly when setting up your breeders. In my opinion, shape especially dorsal shape is the hardest thing to fix and size will come over time and quite easily. When I picked out my male for the next cross, all the males in the tank were small and had poor dorsals, but a few had better caudal shape. I picked up a male from line SBOG with fair caudal shape. I then picked the females from line OGSB because this line was showing more size. The other fish from the crosses were disposed of. That set up my next set of breeders that were called line SBOG-OGSB. The fry from line SBOG-OGSB were looking very much improved over their parents. I was getting males that were doubled in size and the caudal shape was greatly improved as well. The downside was that they still were poorly-shaped dorsals that were a little better than the originals, but they were choppy at the top and needed a lot of work.
I then went back online to find another breeder to buy some greens from. I found an old friend named Lori Rill. I made a trade with her and got myself a trio of some of her greens. They were a cross of true greens to Moscow greens. When I got the fish, I was very happy with them. They were not perfect but they had a lot of potential for improvement. They were a bit on the blue side, but they did have some streaks of Green. One thing that they did not have was the Moscow look and I was happy that they did not. They had great caudal shape and were double the size of my breeders from the generation before of my SBOG-OGSB line. They had fair shaped dorsals, but they were half again better than the line I was working with at the time. I named my new line from Lori my LR Line. I crossed the LR male to my SBOG-OGSB females to make a new line that I called LR- SBOG-OGSB. I also crossed the SBOG-OGSB male to the LR females and called that line SBOG-OGSB-LR. Any other fry from the other crosses were once again disposed of.
The fry from the LR- SBOG-OGSB was once again greatly improved from their parents. The dorsals were half again as nice and started to take the true parallelogram shape, but the top of the dorsal was still choppy. At about the same time as I got my greens from Lori, I also picked up some greens from Luis Tamarelle. The fish from Luis had nice shape, but were a bit on the small side compared to the line I was working with. They also had a lot of blue mixed in with green in the caudal, but I felt that this was a line that could be a great asset to me for its shape. I ran the line for 2 generations to improve the size and color. Luis calls his fish Florida greens, so I named it the FL line. Then I crossed a LR- SBOG-OGSB male to the FL Females to make a LR- SBOG-OGSB-FL line, which I renamed line A. I also crossed the FL line male to the LR- SBOG-OGSB and called that line my FL-LR- SBOG-OGSB, which I renamed line B. I renamed my lines to line A and line B because my abbreviations were beginning to get long and it was hard to write a book on a sticker to put on my tanks. The fry from line A produced a number of great looking males that had great caudal shape and the dorsals were near perfect. The fry from line B was small and the shape of the dorsal was worse than their parents, so I decided to dispose of this line to concentrate my tank space on line A. After ditching line B, I now only had one line of greens, but they were now the ideal show fish.
I now have set up multiple breeders from my A line, which will let me cross within my own lines in the future. Each line had their own color tone of green and I have found them all to be green no matter what the lighting condition is. I have shown some of my Greens in the 2006 show season and I have found them to do well. I was able to take Best of Show Tank at the Chicago show. I also took the 1st Runner up spot in the Green Class this year in 2006 after showing my greens in only 4 of the 8 shows of the season.
I hope this article gives you a better understanding of how to create your own strain of guppies. I have found it very satisfying in making my own strain of green that I have now named Mousseau greens. With a little bit of time, tank space, and patience, you too can produce your own fish. Just because there is not a breeder out there that has winning fish of the color you want to raise, it does not mean that you can’t have some yourself. This is a great hobby to be in because you will get out of the hobby the same amount you put into it.
The Breeding of the Snakeskin Guppy!
By: Tim Mousseau
Snakeskins are my favorite type of guppy. I have had my Snakeskins for six years now and I have found myself at the top of the class every year I show them. Snakeskins are very pretty to look at but those looks don’t come easy. During my article, I will talk about the dos and don’ts when breeding Snakeskin’s.
Before thinking about breeding Snakeskins you need to realize how much patience you need to breed them. Snakeskin’s don’t fully tail out until they are 12-14 months of age. There is always a lot of culling to do with Snakeskin’s. You may have a tank of fifty plus males but you only keep fifteen of them to show, if you are lucky.
When picking out your breeders, there are many things you need to look for. Picking out your breeders should come at five to six months of age. They need to be picked out to breed at this age because it is hard to tell what they are going to be any sooner, due to the slow growing and coloring up process. My order for picking out my Snakeskin breeders is much different then picking out any other strain of guppies.
The first thing I look for is the overall shape. I look for a nice parallelogram dorsal which should be 3 units long to 1 unit of height in a delta, 4 to 1 in a veil and 5 to 1 in a swordtail. A good male will should also have a nice triangular shaped caudal between fifty five to seventy five degrees for a delta. At the time of setting up your breeder male he will more than likely be in the 2 to 1 in body to caudal ratio. If you are having a problem getting them to tail out, pick out the males that are the closest to 1 to 1 at the time when you are selecting your breeders.
The caudal on the Snakeskins should have as even of a spread on the top half of its peduncle (The point where the body and caudal meet) as it is on the bottom half of it’s peduncle for a delta tail. If its angle is shifted to the top or the bottom it “could be classified as a veil”. Finally, regarding shape, you want to avoid fish with ridges behind the eye, a flat head to the dorsal and or the body being too thin (figure 3). Bent, short or missing gill plates tend to be a problem with snakeskins. This future should be avoided at all costs. If you start having gill pate issues they are very hard to fix, so don’t breed fish with that problem.
After picking for the shape, you want to look at the color portion of the Snakeskin. In the body of a true snakeskin, you should have at least 60% of a distinct chain-linked or rosette pattern with 100% pattern being ideal. At six months of age, it will most likely not show all of its body color. The easiest way to judge how much Snakeskin pattern a male has is to break the body up into four equal sections, each section being 25% of its body. You should also look for males that have a pattern that is equally distributed through the entire body. In addition, look for males that start showing Snakeskin pattern like features to the tip of the nose, as far as possible will be ideal. Again this may not come until they reach maturity or it may not reach the nose at all. The stomach area should also be filled with snakeskin pattern which is a future you want to hold onto when and if you get it.
The background body color should be the same color as the caudal. If you have a Green lace Snakeskin, the background body color should be Green. If you have a Red Lace Snakeskin, you should have a red background body color etc. You want to look out for pure streaks of color that are not equally distributed. You also want the shade of the caudal to match the dorsal and body in color and tint to have the ideal Snakeskin (figure 2).
After picking out your male breeders, it is now time to look for females you want to breed. I look for a short female with a thick peduncle. I also look for the same body shape problems as I do in the male, which you would not want to breed in to your line. When looking at Variegated Snakeskins, I look for females with a clear caudal with no color. When you do this, you ensure the male will only carry over the color characteristics in the caudal and dorsal. In most Variegated Snakeskin lines you will have a round shape caudal in the female. When looking at the caudal in a Solid Snakeskin, you want a female with the same color caudal and dorsal as you are looking for in the male. In my Solid Snakeskin line, I have a triangular shaped caudal. Watch out for nicks or chunks missing out of the caudal or dorsal of the males or females.
Through my article I covered most of the do’s and don’ts in breeding Snakeskins. Some of them apply to other strains of guppies and some don’t. I assure you if you stick to my advice, you should become very successful in breeding and showing your Snakeskin’s.
Preparing for a show season!
There are many details that go into winning a Class Championship that new breeders don’t think about, some are more helpful then others in winning a class. Sure having really nice fish is needed to win a class, but this article will explain one detail that is just as important as having good fish. This one detail will raise your chances of having a successful show season dramatically. That detail is knowing how many tanks it takes to win the color class you are after. I like to look at it more as how many fish I need for that color class then how many tanks of fish that I need. But the number of tanks is a lot easier for a newcomer to figure out where they sit then the number of fish they need.
After you have shown in a class for awhile, you can quickly figure out how many fish it will take you to win that color class. Some colors require more tanks then others. For example, the Red class requires more tanks of fish, then let's say the Yellow class. There are a number of reasons why this is true. There are a lot more people showing in the Red class then the Yellow. So the quality of the fish in the Red class needs to be much higher then that of the Yellow. By no means am I saying that the fish that go into the Yellow class are low in quality, but I am saying that most of the time the fish that will win the Red class will be 10+ points or more over the Yellow class winner.
It also requires a lot more tanks of fish to show in the Breeder Male or Female class because you need five matched fish for Males and three matched fish for females. In tank classes only two matched fish are needed. When you have five tanks to pick from, you can get your matches much closer then if you only had 2 or 3. If you are looking at a tank of ten fish, you might be able to get two Breeder entries out of them where you could get up to five tank entries out of that same tank of ten fish."
In addition to that, there are colors that tend to have longer longevity then others do. With a Snakeskin, you may get two shows out of one fish before he is no longer in show condition. But with a Green, you may only get one show out of a fish. Note that not all lines of fish of one color are the same. You may be able to get your A line of Greens to last one show where your B line will last you two. This all depends on your personal situation which you have to put into play when you are figuring out the number of tanks you will need. That being said, it may require one strain half the amount of tanks to win a class as another.
Now some of you are asking why it is so important to have many tanks of fish. You may be thinking if I have a big lead in points and I don’t have enough fish for a show, then I will just take a show off. Well for every show in every color class that has both Deltas and Tank entries, a person can gain up to 840 points in one show. So even a large lead can be cut down or overtaken quickly by missing one show. When you take into consideration how many classes end up with 840 points or less between 1st and 2nd place, you see how missing one show is a big deal. Thus, it is very important that you have at least two tank entries and two delta entries for every show.
I hope that this article will make newcomers better prepared when going into a show season. I strongly advise everyone to take this into consideration when they are setting up their breeders for their show fish. Take as many drops as you need, but take the grow out time into consideration. Make sure you space your drops out, so you can have fish for every show. A good rule of thumb is one tank of 10 to 15 fish per show. This will be plenty of fish for a show season. Good luck to all of you during this show season!
1. The culling process is the most important.
2. Our code we follow when picking breeders (SCS in that order):
Shape: Without this you cannot have a good breeder or a show fish.
Color: Compliments the shape. Without this your guppies cannot place in an IFGA show.
Size: This is the biggest factor to have your guppies placing in Best Of Show!!!!
3. Selecting Male Breeders:
A.More on the culling process.
B. The top 6 to 8 (3 to 4 months old) from one tank of 12 to 15 males (or more).
Breeder Males are then placed in a 51/2 gallon tank.
C.There you use our code of picking breeders is as followed:
USE OUR CODE OF HONOR ( SCS )
D. When you have a winning strain it get harder to pick out your breeders since the guppies are much closer to looking like top show form.
A. 2 Males to 4 Females in a 5 1/2 gallon tank.
B. 5 Males to 6 Females per 10 galllon tank.
C Never one male to one female becuse you will find vary low success.
D. A Father to Daughter is perfect for line breeding ( Closest Match )
5. How To Setup
1. Sister to Brother is what most breeders use today!
2. Always have a second backup set of breeders.
3. Cross one out of every 3 to 4 generations to open up your gene pool for size.
By: Tim Mousseau
Well it has been one heck of a long off-season already. My dad and I have been doing a lot of different things to fight off the Wintertime Fish Blues. Since I have extended time during this break, I have been visiting various pet shops on pet shop hopping trips. Other than guppies, I am also into breeding Angels, Plecos, Coryies and my recent plunge is into Discus. It is crazy on how totally different species of fish have so many things that are the same. Just like with guppies, water changes, feeding high quality foods and proper grow out space are just some of the things that are common for a lot freshwater species.
My dad and I have also been changing the location of a few of our racks in our fish room. Two years ago, we had remodeled our whole fish room. For those of you who have built a few fish rooms, you know all to well that there will always be something you overlook. Our big mistake was the location of our desk in our fish room. We use our desk to do paperwork and when bagging fish to ship. Our fish room is shaped like a lopsided upside down L. At the backside of the small end of the L, we have our sink. We also had a rack of tanks on the left side and then our desk was on the right side.
When my dad and I are bagging our fish and try to go to the sink, it was always too hard to get by the desk area when someone else was sitting there. To fix this problem, we moved our desk to the large wide side of our fish room. This will solve our problem. This has been a time-consuming task because we have to move all our plumbing for our automatic water change system. We have now completed our new desk area and are working on putting up a rack of tanks where the desk used to be.
Other than those projects, I have also been using this winter season to clean my tanks to where they never seem to be during the summer months. I am also changing my concentration for current strains and working on new ones such as HB/Purples and Red Albinos. I am getting out of Reds and possibly the Variegated Snakeskins. I have done well with both strains in the past, but it is time to move on and try new things. I am down to only a few tanks of my Reds and I hope to be out of the Variegated Snakeskins sometime after this show season.
I have also been using this time to write some articles for this great e- bulletin. If everybody in the IFGA could take the time and write one article a year for the e-bulletin, we could be reading a very large e-bulletin every month. There is no better way of giving back to the bulletin than by writing articles. So, as I look to the 2nd half of this winter off-season, I hope to continue what I have been doing and add a few other things to make it go by even more quickly.
What We Feed And What Not To Feed!
There are many of foods on the market that you can use to feed your fish as not all of the foods are healthy or beneficial to them. We feed many high protein foods with a lot of meat but we also feed foods with alot of vegetables. It is very important that you feed a well balanced diet. There are many of problems that unbalanced diets can cause. Unbalanced diets can cause overweight or chesty males, fertility problems and even disease problems. The most important food for full growth is baby brine shrimp. Baby brine shrimp is the highest protein food out there on the market. We feed baby brine twice a day, once in the morning and once at night. We also, feed frozen brine shrimp every week. Frozen brine shrimp does not have as much protein as baby brine, but it will put size on your fish quick. We do not feed frozen brine shrimp to any babies less than one mouth old. Baby guppies cannot digest it and will often die. When feeding frozen brine shrimp, you want to watch how much you use, because you can pollute your water and throw your tank chemistry off balance. We feed meaty flake foods are 45% or higher in protein. One rule that you must remember is to only feed your guppies what they can eat in a ten minute time frame. Your guppies can eat every hour, but sometimes they do not know when to stop. If they eat too much they can blow up like a balloon and die. Different foods can have different effects on different strains. Spirulina will cause your greens to get greener or your purples to get lighter, but will cause you halfback to fade or sometimes fade on halfback strains. Foods such as Blood warms and Black worms should not be feed to your guppies. They have a hard time digesting these foods and fighting off the many different diseases they can and will bring in. There is no such thing as clean black warms it is more of how long it will take before they cause a problem. I know of many breeders who have tried feeding such foods who have wiped out whole fish rooms. Stay away from bloodworms and black warms and keep your fish on a well balanced diet.
2009, 2010 & 2012 IFGA Grand Overall Male Champion